Divine dining
December 31, 2009
Winnipeg Free Press
Written by: Marion Warhaft
It was a good year for restaurants, with a veritable constellation of stars awarded to local eateries
There are good years and -- when I'm really lucky -- there are great years, and 2009 has been one of the greats. But although there seem to be more new high-end openings than ever before, those that merit my top five-star rating are few and far between, which makes this year's only five-star restaurant an easy choice for the most auspicious debut.
DACQUISTO is executive chef Michael Dacquisto's personal baby, reflecting his passion for the North Italian foods of his own background. Among them: a magnificent osso buco unlike any other local versions -- carved at tableside and complete with bone marrow; bistecca fiorentina, i.e. a massive (40 ounces) porterhouse done in Florentine style; veal cheeks with spinach and ricotta stuffed gnocchi; and a whole grilled Mediterranean sea bass. Pastas, wisely, are available in half portions, among them spaghetti with fresh clams in their shell and crumbles of Italian sausage and a genuine carbonara. There are sumptuous risottos and -- five stars all the way -- exquisite desserts. 1715 Kenaston Blvd., 938-2229.
Four-and-a-half stars aren't exactly chopped liver either, and TERRACE 55 was a highlight, both for its exquisite setting in the park, and its delicious food. It was here I had my first, mind-blowing taste of the exquisite honey brown mussels from British Columbia, and was also impressed by thick veal chops with wild mushrooms in madeira sauce, partnered by noodle-like spaetzle; the maple-brined Berkshire pork chop; and the halibut in a coating of brioche crumbs. I can think of no lovelier setting for a sunny-day lunch, or a better choice than the lobster and shrimp salad in a toasted roll. 55 Pavilion Cres., Assiniboine Park, 938-7275.
The LOBBY ON YORK is most notable for its splendid meats. A richly beefy rib steak on the bone, for instance, or rack of lamb partnered with an Indian flat bread wrap of terrific Moroccan-spiced braised lamb, and -- here too -- another superb double veal chop in a porcini sauce, also with spaetzle. They also do a good job on chive-crusted halibut, and, for a starter, try the tuna tartare from the sushi bar. Kudos also for the excellent wines by the glass. 295 York Ave., 896-7275.
Japanese restaurants are springing up on almost every corner, but few of them reach the four-and-a-half-star standards set by ASAHI, either for its charming decor or delicious food. As well as top-notch sushi there are several creations that I haven't found elsewhere: barbecued yellowtail cheek, for instance; or torched whelks -- minced and stuffed back into their shells; or tiny clams steamed in sake. And, to finish, the sumptuous Pearl of Paradise -- mango ice cream, tapioca and strawberry syrup, in a casing of chocolate. 3116 Roblin Blvd., 943-3566.
While prices in upscale establishments seem to be in a race for the top, Asian restaurants have usually offered both good food and good buys, and this year two of them earned four-and-a-half stars. Although there are a few Chinese dishes on the menu at COM TAM THUAN KIEU, the stars are for the wonderful Vietnamese cooking, and its uncommonly attractive presentation. Tops among the goodies were charbroiled pork balls; cabbage slaw with shrimp; miraculously crunchy fried chicken; and either the phnomh soup topped by a crisp, shrimp-pierced crepe or the sweet and sour soup with just about everything in it. 661 Ellice Ave., 949-9081.
Chinese restaurants just seem to be getting better and better, especially those on Pembina, which is emerging as our second Chinatown. This year's standout was SUMMER PALACE, which also got four-and-a-half stars for such winners as fresh clams steamed with basil and green onions; salt baked chicken with near-caramelized bits of onion; steamed pork belly glazed in tofu; fried shrimp crusted in egg yolk; pigs trotters with gai lan and Chinese mushrooms; flaky onion pancakes; and short ribs partnered with -- a heart-melting touch -- a little glass of port. 1755 Pembina Hwy, 261-9241.
IDOL ASIAN CUISINE offers an enormous Korean cooked-at table-barbeque, but what really makes it exceptional is such rare North (way up north) Chinese dishes as Xianjiang chicken with handmade rice noodles, squiggles of cumin-spiked lamb with onions, garlicky eggplant with potatoes and red peppers, and Chinese mushrooms with sheet jelly. I don't know if the deep-fried, subtly sweet and sour white bass is from way up North but it is delicious. So is toffee-glazed pineapple for dessert. 1910 Pembina Hwy., 269-6688.
I found the year's best Indian cooking at SAMOSA CROWN, where the superlative vegetable pakoras and goat curry are as good on the buffet as they are if ordered à la carte. Nevertheless, don't miss such à la carte treats as paper-thin masala dosa, rolled around potatoes and fried onions and served with coconut chutney; or Jaipuri chicken in a cream-rich sauce; or eggplant chopped with onions and tomatoes; or kofta of house-made cheese with raisins and cashews. Lovely desserts, too. 1030 Keewatin St., 694-2400.
SA'AADAL KHEYR, our only Somali restaurant, is a warm-hearted little treasure. Unbeatable value too, with four fabulous falafel a mere $1, huge ground beef samosas $l each, and delicious entrees $9.99 tops -- salmon in a tangy-sweet glaze or subtly spiced chicken cubes, both with saffron-scented rice; or a chopped beef kebab with couscous. Not everything in the kitchen is listed on the short menu, so ask for the chapati-like bread and the flavourful braised beef that goes with it. 164 Isabel St., 415-5166.
After a long hiatus CHAVE D'OURO finally reopened at a new address, once again offering its great spit-roasted chicken, as well as Portuguese salt cod a bras (with shoestring potatoes, eggs and black olives); grilled wine-marinated pork; such lovely starters as shrimp turnovers and codfish croquettes; and heavenly desserts. Here too the menu is limited but there are such daily specials as octopus salad, pork with clams, and seafood with rice. 1060 Ellice Ave., 783-9090.
In fact, it has been such a fruitful year that I need next week's column to tell you about some other categories, and lots of exceptional dishes.
marion.warhaft@freepress.mb.ca |
